Wednesday 6 April 2016

6th April: Mountains of Music

We have had beautiful sunshine, and early-summer temperatures for the last few days, and I had been staying in-doors most of the time, what a crime. On top of that my hotel was on the foot of the mountain Gorno Nerezi, which looked incredibly jummy to walk up. So this morning, after a short practice, trying to stuff a few of those new tunes into my head and fingers, I packed a little picnic, and made my way upwards, not aiming for the top, but at least far enough to look down onto Skopje.


On the way I met some retired Skopjans, who looked after a lovely little chapel, who were just taking a little rest from their gardening and tidying up the place. They invited me along for a drink, which I accepted, as I thought the language practice is more important than the walk. I learned that they, as most other Macedonians I came across, had been spending quite a few years in Western Europe for work, to safe up money for their retirement.


Afterwards I continued my walk a bit and enjoyed the view over Skopje. On my way down I met a ‘percussion tree’, a funny dry brushwood, which made percussive noises. After some investigation I found out, that the fruit of this music tree was dry and hollow, with some loose bits inside and therefore sounded similar to a Cabasa.


It was time to go back and then make my way up to Topana for the afternoon rehearsal. This time even more people dropped by, and we ended up being a full band. Not that I really knew yet at all what I was doing, but in all that noise I could just play and have fun, and hide my hit-and-miss approach in the general noise. 


It’s an amazing energy and an honour to play with a bunch of musicians so full skill, passion and musicianship.This time even more people dropped by, and we ended up being a full band. Not that I really knew yet at all what I was doing, but in all that noise I could just play and have fun, and hide my hit-and-miss approach in the general noise. It’s an amazing energy and an honour to play with a bunch of musicians so full skill, passion and musicianship.


Each new person who came in added a few more ideas of harmonies, rhythms and arrangements. Latter involved a few heated arguments of whose ideas were best – which I settled at one point by declaring Asan to my maestro of the project. They first looked and listened very bemused when it was my turn to sing, and with a joined effort (and more heated arguments) of tutoring, which in turn amused Asan, they got me to a satisfying level of singing their songs in Romanes. 

The tip of the ice cake came, when one person popped by with free tickets to a big event in the Skopje Theatre for the next evening; it was the celebration of World Roma Day. Of course I was invited along. I went home happy and tired.


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